How To Replace The Fluorescent Starter In A Windhager Bug Zapper
Fourmilab is surrounded on three sides by farmland. In the summer season, bugs are everywhere. Faced with this example, defence in depth is the only possibility: window screens, bats, Odonata on the pond, Zone Defender fly strips on the home windows and swatters in every room, and as the last level of terminal defence, excessive voltage bug zappers with ultraviolet fluorescent lures. These will not be elegant units, but they get the job executed. The precept couldn't be easier-flying insects, whose compound eyes see long-wave ultraviolet light that mammalian eyes don't, are attracted by the lure tube, which appears to emit a dim blue mild to humans. To succeed in the sunshine, they need to fly between wires electrified with between four and 8 kilovolts which, when the insect completes the circuit, kill-a-bug. The only downside (no less than if you are not a flying insect) is that they do not appear to last very long. After just a little a couple of summer, the bulb either begins to flash on and off like a strobe mild or simply refuses to mild at all.
Replacement bulbs are readily accessible and straightforward to install, but in my experience, Zone Defender at least half the time changing the bulb would not repair the issue. With no mild to attract the insects, a zapper is useless, so though its high voltage subsystem continues to work completely, Zap Zone Defender Testimonial most people junk it when altering the bulb doesn't make it gentle up. I'm way too low cost to be pleased with such a state of affairs, so I determined to open up a failed bug zapper and see what was occurring. The supply of the issue proved to be as simple as I anticipated and as easy to remedy, so in the hope of saving anyone else the trouble of figuring it out, I've scribbled these notes on the best way to repair your individual bug zappers. These instructions pertain to bug zappers made by the Windhager company of Salzburg, Austria, who have a dominant market share in this obscure business here in Central Europe.
Obviously, Zone Defender you probably have a bug zapper made by one other company, it may look totally different inside and will conceivably use a completely completely different circuit for the fluorescent lamp. Unless you understand what you are doing and know sufficient electronics to be confident you're not going to do one thing silly, it is best to depart things effectively enough alone and get a new bug zapper. Further, we will be disassembling and modifying a system which, when opened up, Zone Defender has uncovered connections to probably lethal mains current and very unpleasant if not deadly high voltage. If you are sufficiently stupid or scatterbrained that you're prone to neglect to drag the mains plug earlier than sticking your hand inside the guts of a bug zapper, you need to stop studying instantly and select some safer mission, like making microwave popcorn. To begin with, before beginning this process, you should definitely strive changing the bulb and see if that fixes the problem.
If it does, you've saved quite a lot of time and, if not, you are going to need a alternative bulb in the end, so why not have one readily available when the time comes? If a new bulb would not do the trick, the problem is sort of actually a failed fluorescent starter contained in the field, so we'll have to open it up. You did remember to unplug the zapper before beginning to disassemble it, did not you? First, take away the bug catcher tray at the bottom of the zapper, taking care not to spill lifeless bugs all around the floor or your work space. Depending on the mannequin, the two halves of the body of the bug zapper are fastened together with four or six screws. On "industrial" fashions, these are 2 mm metric machine screws and nuts, but some "consumer" models use infernal "split slot" screws that are intended to keep you from opening up the gadget. You see, you are a consumer, so you're anticipated to consume-purchase, purchase, buy, not mend issues which break.